July 31st, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 6
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The last day of July. By next July I'm hoping I am truly into the final stretch and that the winter was kind to me, as well as everything else that life can suddenly throw at you. But for now, this was Day 6...and there's a lot of ground/ocean to cover ahead of me. The sun was bright and hot again. There was a slight onshore breeze. I knew the water would be warm. So I trunked it again.

On the drive down to the ocean Jacko passed me and honked. That's 6 straight days I've seen Jack in these early stages of this undertaking. Getting to the wall at 10AM I was surprised that there were few beach goers actually on the beach. What's wrong with everyone? This is summer. This is a great beach day. Get on it.

The waves were meek and crumbly. But, there was something to push me.

I threw on a vest and walked down to the water's edge. I saw a solid 8" mush pie crumble in, and I found myself wishing that I had been there to get it. Trust me, there will be days when these crumbly, mushy, cream pies of waves, will be something I'll die for. But for now, I'm not stressing. I am relaxed. A few waves pass me by, as I stood there in waist deep water. Then I spotted my wave. A solid 6" mass of mush.

I pushed off, paddled once, stood up, and saluted. I heard a whistle. At first, I thought it was a seabird. Then I heard it again. It was Marky J standing on the wall waving. Marky J is a good friend. He came running down and we chatted. Michael Taylor showed up and asked if I was coming or going. I guess the fact that I was dry from my waist up warranted that query. I smiled at everyone, and drove back home. My son Max was heading off today to play in the Shrine Bowl in Vermont. I wanted to wish him luck and congratulate him. And to tell him how much we are all so proud of him, and how much we all love him. Shrine Bowl. Wow.

Now I've got to think ahead to next weekend, to see how and when I'll be able to catch my wave on the day of the game, and still get to see my son play football.

I'll figure it out...I always did in the past. I can do it again.

Another "One and done." That's 6...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

July 30th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 5
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The sun was shining bright this morning as I drove down the street to catch my wave. However, the images of seeing my friend Tony yesterday afternoon were still fresh in my mind, and the sun was just a clear light and reminder on what I already know. I looked cancer in the face yesterday. I've faced it before. I've looked it right in the eye and dealt with it's poison many times over. I recognized it yesterday. It hung over Tony like a wet, damp, woolen blanket. Tony was frail and weak.

He kept sighing throughout my visit.

But we laughed and reminisced about our childhood and our time in the war. And the whole time we spoke, cancer was there. Underneath the smiles and laughter, just eating away at Tony's Liver and Lungs....biding it's ugly time. His wife and brother Victor forcing painful smiles. But it was good. Tony has faith. He believes in God. He has accepted the Lord as his savior. He said he'll be waiting for us at heavens gate.

I asked him to say hello to my family and friends. Then I embraced him. I put my hand over his heart and we both smiled.

I'll be back to see him hopefully a few more times, before he makes the transition between both worlds. It was good to see him smile. Sigh...

I pulled up at the wall this morning. It was smaller than the day before. But still something to ride. As I walked away from my vehicle, Buck pulled up. Buck is Molly's dad. I shouted out "Day five brother!" He yelled back. "Day 5...I love you!" as he drove off. "I love you too Buck..." I said softly as I walked down the stairs, and out into the ocean.

I caught my wave, saluted, and walked back up the stairs.

That's 5...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


July 29th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 4
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The day started off with an overcast humid ceiling and I actually thought to myself (Oh no it's cloudy). Cloudy? Ha! That will be the least of my problems in a few months. I quickly cleared my head of that nonsense. I checked the wave cam and saw what looked like a little peeler. H-m-mmm. My daughter Noelle joined me for the short ride and daily wave. As we pulled up to 10th street, I saw a wave. It was a pleasant surprise. There were little knee high waves. Noelle sat on the wall and I pulled on a 2mil shortie with sleeves because I had a feeling it was cold. Call it a gut feeling, based on many, many, years of surfing these waters.

The water was really cold.

It was going to be semi fun with a little swell running. So I was in no rush. There were three others out. And no swimmers. I paddled over to Ralph's Rights off the Jetty and snagged my first of three waves. I fired off a smart salute on that first wave. And on my last wave I actually got a semi cheater five. *Note to self. I need to wax the nose where all the stickers are if I'm going to be riding in the nose area. But overall. I was happy with my new board's performance. In fact, I'm looking forward to the first day of decent surf.

As I walked up the sand towards Noelle and Jacko, who was working across the street. I thought about my friend Tony C, who I will be seeing later today. A childhood friend who's dying of cancer. He has weeks to live. He's married with one daughter, and two beautiful young grandchildren. He's a year older than me.

Tony saw some heavy combat in Vietnam in the late 60's.

His mobilized unit was overrun by enemy soldiers one night. Tony's gun turret was hit and disabled. When the enemy came rushing into the compound, Tony hid under the vehicle as the enemy ran by him. They were inches away from him. "Ralphie I could see their sandals, and hear them calling out to each other. It freaked me out!" he told me when he first came home in 1968.

It freaked me out too. Because, I was heading over.

Tony became a firefighter after his service. He lives out near Raymond, NH. Only a short drive from Hampton., He was not a surfer. He loved the beach though. But once again, cancer shows it's ugly head, and in a short time, Tony's family will be coping with the unthinkable. I'll say a prayer for you Tony, and for your family.

Another day behind me now. That's 4...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


July 28th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 3
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was one of those..."oh oh" days. The kind of days where the surf is about 6 to 12 inches...and not very consistent. I almost took the fins off my board. I stood there looking at the ocean before I waded out. There was a guy playing with his dog, and a few beach walkers. Ricky and Remy Radkay were on the wall watching. I stood in waist deep water with my board. Big Black. I flipped it over so the wax wouldn't melt.

The water was really warm.

Honestly, I'm dying to surf my new board in some decent surf. I want to try that deep "V" out. I bet it's going carve nicely. But there will be no carving today. Hardly.

A small unorganized bump appeared...it looked to be all of 8 to 10 inches. I laid on the board, gently paddled, and eased into the small left. I rode the wave a good 10 feet, snapped off a salute, and stepped off. I looked up at the girls on the wall, they gave me a thumbs up, and I was off.

Another "One and done." That's 3...I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph



July 27th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 2
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I thought about taking a photo every day, but then I thought, I would be making it more difficult for myself as the weather started to turn. So I nixed that idea. Got up early again today, and attended a local Hampton Rotary Meeting on the Main Beach. We had foreign exchange students visiting from Israel. A dozen Arab teens and Israeli teens. All getting along peacefully and digging the USA.

If all the World Leaders could see and hear what these kids thought, there would be world peace. Including Terrorist Leaders...but that's not going to happen. Too bad.

I looked at the surf on the way in the door at 7AM...today would be one of many "One and Dones." That's Catch One Wave and Leave. The wave I caught was maybe a foot. I never got my hair wet, or my upper torso. My friend Jacko watched me from across the street. After my uneventful (one) ride, I went over to chat with Jack and Billy. Then I went home. My wife was surprised at how fast I did this,. I told her I would of been quicker had I not stopped to hang with Jack. One and Done. No fuss no muss.

I know the difficult days are coming...but for now, I'll enjoy the peace and tranquility of being alone with my thoughts in the ocean.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


July 26th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 1
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

So it begins. Got up early today and put in the finishing touches on my new board. Big Black. My 9' 0 that Sashi and Stanek made for me was looking clean, and I couldn't wait to test ride her on the first day. The air felt like a touch of Fall. The wind was honking out of the Northwest. It was cold. That could only mean one thing. Cold water.
Damn, I was wanting it to be warm today. Oh well.

I picked some blueberries and something triggered something in my brain, and I remembered the dream I had last night. I dreamt there was snow on the ground. And I was freaking out in my dream. Snow? What The...? I laughed about it, as I ate my morning cereal.

The whole family was on hand. Cory, Gabby, Max, and Noelle all helped me load the Commander up, and off we went to 10th Street. I was not going to wear a wetsuit today. No sir. It's summer, and there's no snow on the ground. I'm trunking it.

Pulling up to the Wall I saw a lot of familiar friendly faces and this...

DAY ONE...July 26, 2010. Photo By Cory

How cool is this?

Bryan and Heather and the boys, Gavin and James from Pioneers. My friends Tony, Jacko, Skip, and a bunch of others were all on hand. So many kids everywhere. MaryEllen Giles and her daughter, the Nichols with Kai, Grif and Anna Gem, the twins, Jon Anderson and his three kids. It was great. And of course Meg, Buck, and Kieran Rowlee and Meg's dad. They were all stoked and looking strong willed today. God Bless them all.

And because I am spiritually enriched, I know that Molly, My Mom, my best buddy Joe, and Linda Paugh were all there too. Their spirit was everywhere. Especially Molly. Kevin and Kim Grondin were there. And a bunch of my fellow veterans showed.

And right before we got started, I spotted a Big Harbor Seal cruising about 6' from the shoreline. It was so cool. The big seal just cruised by checking the kids out. At one point I watched as Buck and Kieran were almost communicating with the Seal. It was so cool. A seal...I saw lots of seals 10 years ago when I did this. Mostly in the winter. To see one on the first day was special.

The SEAL...July 26, 2010. Photo By Cory

My fellow Photogs were there too. Lenny Nichols, Ed O'Connell and Brian Nevins.
They captured the first day like the pros they are. I was humbled to have them there.
Nevins managed to shoot the coolest looking mini waves on this day. One shot was
so unbelievably clear, it didn't look real. Check it yourselves.

Clear Day...July 26, 2010. Photo By Brian Nevins

Me and Buck addressing the gathering...July 26, 2010. Photo By Cory

I said a few words. Today is about "Faith, Hope, and Love..." I spoke about cancer
and how it has affected each and every one of us. Then Buck spoke and said some encouraging words for me and everyone else who was there.

Then it was time...First wave of 365 Consecutive Days.

Arelene Nichols gave me a beautiful Lei and I made the walk towards "Ralph's Rights" at 10th Street Jetty. July 26, 2010. Photo By Ed O'Connell

Not sure how I was going to do, I was a bit apprehensive. But, I had a bunch of Groms out there with me. And Thank God for them.

Waiting and thinking...July 26, 2010. Photo By Brian Nevins I I thought about Molly, My Mom, Joe, and Linda. As Buck and I sat there waiting for that first wave...

The GROMS...July 26, 2010. Photo By Brian Nevins

They cheered me on as I caught my first wave......and about that wave? It was nothing special. But keep in mind I had never ridden this board before. I hadn't even paddled on it until today. But the kids cheered me on, as a small knee high right popped up on the sandbar, and I stroked into it...

The Ride. The Salute. And so it begins...July 26, 2010. Photo By Brian Nevins

I swung Big Black into the mini right and got to my feet and snapped off a salute. It was over before I could blink my eyes. I caught a few more. Then I came in. Buck was out catching everything in sight, and the kids had fun. Then it was time to disperse and get off to work. After all, tomorrow is another day, and the day after, and the day after that...and the day...oh you get it. 365...only 364 to go...


I snapped one pic myself...July 26, 2010. Photo By RALPH

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph




"CATCH A WAVE FOR MOLLY" ARCHIVED BLOGS

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